2022 Nicolas Gauffroy Aligoté Vieilles Vignes
2022 Nicolas Gauffroy Aligoté Vieilles Vignes
The wine smells of ripe apple, grilled bread and citrus zest. On the palate, it is elegant and light with a refreshing, lingering finish.
90/100 points Konstantin Baum
The wine world is changing and a once ridiculed grape variety is currently on the upswing. Aligoté's parents are Pinot and Gouais Blanc, which means it has the same ancestors as Chardonnay. Sister Chardonnay had a dream career, became the white favorite in Burgundy and is now one of the most widely planted grape varieties in the world. Aligoté remained the ugly duckling of the family. It slowly disappeared from the vineyards and only a few winegrowers made an effort to grow the variety. Aligoté was derisively used to make the Kir wine mix, in which the sharp acidity of the wine is softened by sweet blackcurrant liqueur.
Today, however, the situation is different. Warmer temperatures and a shortage of affordable Chardonnays in Burgundy are putting Aligoté on the map. The better wines are refreshing and exciting and the best have depth. They can be reminiscent of Chardonnay, but are generally leaner and less influenced by wood flavors.
The Aligoté from the old vines of the Gauffroy estate is such a wine. Son Nicolas has vinified an expressive white wine that dances across the tongue.
The wine smells of ripe apple, grilled bread and citrus zest. On the palate, it is elegant and light with a refreshing, lingering finish.
90/100 points Konstantin Baum